| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Gelios |
Posted - Aug 12 2008 : 08:09:41 AM
Hello all,
Kids are away on vacation, so I have some time to spend rebuilding several FED 1 cameras....
I am currently standardizing the register distances and I need some shims to complete the work.
Do you know where I could find some or do you have another convenient solution?
 Thanks! |
| 12 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Luiz Paracampo |
Posted - Aug 14 2008 : 6:16:56 PM
Nicholas
The idea was to built low priced lenses but good performers and in the same time very dependable, that is, you will have a good lens for at least the next three or four generations.
The set should be a fixed focus wide angle glass lens with f/8 25mm focal length and a focusing f/5.6 80mm similar to FED 100mm with zone focusing.
The set in a case with two finders with spare for the camera body and normal lens would not exceed the 50 dollars range when series produced.
Any suggestions which would not increase the producing costs will bve well received.
Regards
LP |
| Gelios |
Posted - Aug 14 2008 : 08:09:58 AM
Luiz, please develop... There are already some wide angle and tele lenses for these cameras... What is your goal? |
| Luiz Paracampo |
Posted - Aug 13 2008 : 4:00:00 PM
Nicholas
Some time ago I was thinking in making a wide angle and a short telephoto specially made for such cameras.
What do you find about this idea?
regards
LP |
| Gelios |
Posted - Aug 13 2008 : 07:54:28 AM
Luiz, the best would be to keep the camera as it is, hoping the lens to be the original one (after all these years...). But the most convenient for me is to set it at the Leica standard (28.80mm loaded). As you wrote, it raise another issue: are new lenses going to be on the right position once screwed? If I remember well, I have only one camera with such real trouble.
For the flange measure, I have a depth gauge which is perfect for that task. When light is correctly oriented, it is fairly easy to see when the gauge tip touches the film surface. I have to make several measurements with various orientations of the gauge base to check that the mont ring is parallel to the film plane. This is very time consuming! 
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| James McGee |
Posted - Aug 12 2008 : 10:20:36 PM
Hello everyone,
All I can say is that the combined intimate detailed knowledge that you guys have between you of how to repair and maintain these lovely old cameras just knocks me out! Absolutely amazing!
Best wishes Jim. |
| dgillette4 |
Posted - Aug 12 2008 : 6:55:06 PM
Thanks Luiz , originality would be of prime interest for me also. Don
ZORKIE'S Survive |
| Luiz Paracampo |
Posted - Aug 12 2008 : 5:12:45 PM
Nicolas
Pay attention.
You have two ways to follow:
First is mantain the originality of the camera.
Second is standartize the camera.
When doing that, you will loose original lens this cannot be replaced or used on the camera.
The correct standartizing will need a replacement of the mounting screw ring that attaches the lens on the camera. FED cameras made up to 1939 have not the winding screws standartized, placing a lens from another camera could put it upside down or in any other position.
So you need to prepare a new mounting ring for the new purposes, or use one from a newer useless FED, Zorki or Zenit cameras .
With a precision vernier the front flange must go to the film plane at exact 28.8mm
If you really want to go ahead I can assist you in this interesting and fascinating task.
Regards
LP
Note: Precision copper or aluminium foils can be obtained at jeweller makers shops. |
| Jacques M. |
Posted - Aug 12 2008 : 10:56:27 AM
There was a hole made in the back of one of my Fed S 1d to regulate all that (no hole after c. # 11500).
Once the job done, the owner filled it again! 
Jacques. |
| dgillette4 |
Posted - Aug 12 2008 : 10:32:29 AM
Does yur camera have a small hole in the back of the body? If so this is the way they checked focus. I'm getting my one and twos mixed up...he he. Or maybe flash sync...Don't know if a hakosyn would work on them.
ZORKIE'S Survive |
| Gelios |
Posted - Aug 12 2008 : 09:52:13 AM
Yes Don, I need also to check the RF setting (the funny part...).
Jacques, I should use these pre-war cameras with post-war lenses (Industar 22, Industar 50 or Jupiter 8). So bodies should be set with 28.80mm distance (assuming that post-war lenses follows Leica standards...).
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| Jacques M. |
Posted - Aug 12 2008 : 09:41:32 AM
Hello Nicolas,
I agree with Don: the more convenient is paper in several layings if necessary to obtain the 28,8mm which are indispensable between the lens rim and the film.
But for prewar Fed 1-s, bodies and lenses were regulated together one by one at the factory. So, it can be much more complex as the regulation doesn't concern the body only, but the lens too...
I never tried to do that by myself: I asked a specialist!
Amitiés. Jacques. |
| dgillette4 |
Posted - Aug 12 2008 : 09:20:34 AM
Most of the shims I see are paper, Personally I think brass shim stock if thin enough would be better, try hobby shops or arts and crafts. Just as long as you arrive at the proper flange to fp distance it would be fine. But just for sure I would run a test roll with the 1.5 lense opened up at various distances from one meter to inf. There is a site called the (fed survival site) with the proper specs. I think it is 28.8mm but make sure. There should be a link from Vlads site here. While it's apart check the rf setting. Good luck and let me know how you make out..Don
ZORKIE'S Survive |
