Moskva-2 pictures

I got one, recalibrated the rangefinder, fixed the shutter release linkage and cleaned the optics. Now it seems quite decent to me. The grain is because I had a bit of hurry developing and developed both Delta 100 and HP5+ in Rodinal using Delta 100 time, so this is what you get when you do that.

https://anteek.fi/~esp/h%C3%A4meenkatu.jpg

https://anteek.fi/~esp/asemahalli.jpg

https://anteek.fi/~esp/odotellessa.jpg

Looks nice to me. It seems you did your adjustments well.

Ron

I specially like the second photo...
Absolutely beautiful!

Jacques.

Very well done! Crisp and beautiful! Good work!!!

Thank you for your compliments! Here is one more, this time in color, shot in Madrid around 15th of March this year.

https://anteek.fi/~esp/heitto-small.jpg

Moskva-2 is actually a fun "street" camera to use. Fits in the pocket of a Mackinaw jacket, and is reasonably sharp. Also, people react positively to it.

This camera just keeps on giving.

https://anteek.fi/~esp/kaivosrakennus-small.jpg

Hello onre, I've just been looking at moskva-2 cameras becuase of your post. They seem quite complicated.

I owned a zeiss ikon nettar for a short while, but it was scale focus, and as I'm not much good with judging distances I had to carry a zorki 4k to act as a 'rangefinder', which I decided was too inconvenient so I sold it.

Moskva-2 isn't really that complicated once you get used to it. I actually use it all the time. Here are a couple of tips.

1) Only advance the film just before shooting, unless you're doing street photography or something else where timing is critical. The reason for this is that there seems to be always some dust on the bellows. If you advance the film, then carry camera around for some time and only then take the picture, you may have dust on the film causing black spots on the negative.
2) Be methodical about checking shutter speed and aperture before exposure. It's really easy to meter, think "oh, f/11 and 1/100 seconds" and then take the picture without actually transferring the settings to the camera.
3) If it doesn't fire, you haven't cocked the shutter or advanced the film. Possibly both.
4) If the rangefinder doesn't do anything, turn up the auxiliary lens arm.

Once you get used to it, it's like second nature, though. It's totally different from a scale focus camera. You can actually even get decent bokeh out of it, if taking portraits.

https://anteek.fi/~esp/vaimo-2-small.jpg

This picture has a very harsh light coming from side, but the lens coating helps a lot. I did not use a hood.

For landscapes, it's a very good camera.

https://anteek.fi/~esp/sarajevo-small.jpg

https://anteek.fi/~esp/peljesac-small.jpg

Onre, the 2nd pic in your first post looks soooo much like it's a still from a 1920's silent film, maybe from one of the missing scenes in "Metropolis".

As for some of the other shots, did yuo shoot with a red filter, or print for quite high contrast?

The pictures from latest post have KMZ жс-17 yellow filter and Fomapan 100 film. All the earlier ones are Ilford HP5+ or Delta 100 and no filter.

The one of a ruined building was taken in very high-contrast light - late afternoon Mediterranean sun directly from behind. The building is on a hill so the picture is taken on a rather steep upward angle.

The last picture has yellow filter, as mentioned, and the setting was quite interesting. From behind the sun was shining at pretty much full blast and simultaneously there was a thunderstorm going on right ahead, producing the contrast between the white clouds, the thunderstorm and the mountaineous peninsula.

Also, it seems that Fomapan 100 film can easily produce very high contrast. It has become a favourite for me.

Thanks for the info onre.

amazing landscape onre! bravo!