nobody won the bottle



!!!
the first one is a fake ! I did it myself when I bought -and suspect- Sputnick II, and quickly discovered how to do....
So I meet a friend which had experience in printer plate and then we decided to make the same !!! (look at the types and spaces between...gently differents from originals -luiz pictures- )
after what, I make a second plate "amator II" :
http://www.ussrphoto.com/UserContent/amator II. plaque jpg.jpg
it was very hard to find the same fonts (we had to re-design some of them , from a standard "Swedish" alphabet)
we used nitrogen acid on Zinc plates as for printers. then we polished this plate (soft shinning like aluminium)and varnished (spray)
If we used magnesium , the plate will be thinner and would look like better some aluminium.
Hard too, was to found roundish screws. ( truth is "Amator 1" screws are square /round and "Amator 2" rounded )
(note : the second picture "amator", I sent, came from Sweden and really correct whith original screws.)
Now I have to dig somewhere a Lubitel 2 and put my Amator ii plate to show another fake




So , why I did it as a collector ?
: only to prove how easy and cheap is to make "new" camera design whith this process (if you stay plates long time in acid you can control whith a chronometer the deep of emboss and even cut staight the plates (so the round wshers arround the lenses:
- first time you emboss the types (after drawing on a Mac) then you protect these types whith a varnish ,
at least , you put again in acid , to cut straight the round washers edges).
once again , when you have some doubts about such cameras : take a lupe and look closely at the types or drawing hedge : in that case they are 30° to 45° sloping , never perpendicular, as obtain in emboss process.
I hope the process clear for all , in spite of my so bad translation...

your friend,
Alain
(Hips !...................sorry I drink all the bottle , lonely

)